92-94/100 Punkte Robert Parker August 2019 The 2018 Châteauneuf du Pape Blanc Cuvée Réservée is a blend of 60% Clairette, 20% Grenache Blanc and 10% each Bourboulenc and Roussanne. It's plump and medium to full-bodied, with a silky texture and a lovely mélange of citrus and tree fruits that finish long and gently chalky.
90/100 Punkte Vinous August 2019 Light vivid orange. Ripe red berry and citrus fruit aromas are complicated by a subtle floral note and a hint of dusty minerals. Fleshy, spice-tinged raspberry and bitter cherry flavors open up slowly and turn sweeter with air. Distinctly concentrated but lively as well, closing with firm grip and repeating cherry and floral notes. Nothing easygoing here (it does check in at 14.5% alcohol, by the way), despite its relatively humble appellation.
93/100 Punkte Vinous August 2019 Vivid orange-pink. Deep-pitched cherry, red berry and lavender aromas, along with suggestions of blood orange and garrique. Stains the palate with concentrated, mineral-tinged raspberry, bitter cherry and floral pastille flavors that show sharp delineation and spicy lift. In a distinctly powerful style but in no way lacking for finesse, delivering strong, red-fruit-driven thrust on an impressively long, mineral-tinged finish.
92/100 Punkte Robert Parker, Aug 2019 The 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre is also performing well, though it doesn't attain quite the heights I thought it might a year ago. A youthfully reserved bouquet of white flowers, citrus oil and honeycomb precedes a medium to full-bodied, satiny and enveloping palate that's nicely concentrated, concluding with a chalky finish but without the electric energy one looks for in a top vintage.
93+/100 Punkte Robert Parker, Aug 2019 The 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu confirms its strong showing last year, unwinding in the glass with aromas of peach, grapefruit and honeycomb, with some subtle musky floral tones waiting in the wings that I suspect will become more prominent with time. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, concentrated and gourmand, with racy acids and a long, saline finish. Billaud tells me that this was cropped at less than 20 hectoliters per hectare, and that shows.
92-94/100 Punkte Vinous, Aug 2018 The 2017 Chablis Mont de Milieu comes from three parcels of 35, 60 and 80-year old vines in different parts of the vineyard that crop at just 25hl/ha. It has a classic Chablis bouquet with a potent sea influence, oyster shells and cockles, and a whiff of kelp. The palate is beautifully balanced with a crisp line of acidity, very harmonious and elegant, the 20% barrel maturation just lending a little more weight to the finish. Superb.
93/100 Punkte Robert Parker August 2019 Billaud's 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Blanchot was another wine cropped at very low yields, around 20 hectoliters per hectare in this case. Offering up a pretty bouquet of citrus blossom, peaches and pears that's subtly framed by a discrete touch of oak, it's full-bodied, satiny and layered, with a broad attack, a fleshy core and a precise but delicately exotic finish.
92+/100 Punkte Robert Parker August 2019 Billaud produced a mere 450 liters of the 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Bougros, a full-bodied, fleshy wine that's deep and concentrated, redolent of honeycomb, orange rind and vanilla pod. Despite its broad shoulders, it's racy and precise and concludes with a saline finish, but it won't be easy to find.
94/100 Punkte Robert Parker August 2019 Cropped at a meager 15 hectoliters per hectare, Billaud produced only two barrels of the 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos. Offering up aromas of musky peach, mandarin and green apple, it's full-bodied, deep and textural, with the structure of a red wine on the palate. This is a powerful, super concentrated Les Clos, but it's also nicely balanced.
93/100 Punkte Robert Parker August 2019 The 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses offers up lovely aromas of orange blossom, oyster shells, iodine and beeswax. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, fine-boned, elegant and precise, with ripe acids and a saline finish. It's a fine rendition of this ethereal climat.
94+/100 Punkte Robert Parker August 2019 The 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir is one of the highlights of the portfolio this year, wafting from the glass with aromas of aromatic citrus fruit, clear honey, oyster shell and almond paste. On the palate, it's full-bodied, concentrated and layered, with racy acids and an intense and penetrating finish. This will be well worth following for the better part of two decades.
94+/100 Punkte Robert Parker August 2019 The 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape La Reine des Bois was bottled just two weeks before I visited the domaine in June, but despite that, it seemed open, lush and delicious on both occasions I tasted it (once blind a week later). Hints of oak and licorice accent black cherries in this big, plush, velvety-textured wine, which is 80% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre and 5% each Syrah and Vaccarèse. It's silky enough to enjoy young but has the requisite stuffing to age well for more than a decade.
89/100 Punkte Robert Parker August 31, 2018 The medium-pink 2017 Cotes du Rhone Rose La Dame Rousse is another top example of this cuvée. It offers raspberry, pear and melon flavors, a plump, medium-bodied mouthfeel and a long, citrusy finish. Crisp and clean, it should be consumed over the next several months.
91-93/100 Punkte Robert Parker August 2017 The 2016 Chablis 1Er Cru Vaillons Vieilles Vignes comes from 70-year-old vines raised only in stainless steel. I like the aromatics here#this has a sense of purpose with vivid scents of orange zest and a touch of lychee. The palate is tensile right from the start thanks to that killer line of acidity. There is great depth here and the harmonious finish feels assured and elegant. Great potential and for me this is a serious step up from the Chablis Village and certainly worth the few extra dollars.
93+/100 Punkte Robert Parker August 31, 2018 The 2016 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos offers up a classy bouquet of preserved lemon, subtle peach, honeycomb, fresh croissants and white flowers. On the palate, it's full-bodied, rich and layered, with considerable power and chewy extract, displaying excellent depth and energy. It's a serious wine, but it will be quite open-knit and accessible by the standards of Les Clos.
93/100 Punkte Robert Parker August 31, 2018 A reserved bouquet of lemon oil, dried white flowers and beeswax introduces the 2016 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir, a dense, full-bodied and concentrated wine that's quite firm and structured on the palate, showing considerable promise. It hails from two parcels at either end of this climat.